How to Prepare Your Car During a Hurricane

Hurricane season runs June 1 through November 30, and the financial toll it leaves behind is staggering. According to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), hurricanes have caused more than $1.5 trillion in damages in the United States since 1980, averaging $23 billion per hurricane.​

In 2024, Hurricanes Helene and Milton alone caused more than $100 billion in combined damage across six states over two weeks. Those numbers represent homes, businesses, infrastructure—and vehicles, which are among the most commonly overlooked assets when families prepare for a storm.​

Most people spend time thinking about their homes before a hurricane makes landfall—which is perfectly valid. That home and everything in it is typically the culmination of your life’s labor. And while people view a house as their most expensive single purchase, do you know what comes second? Your car.​

Still, few think systematically about what’s parked in their driveway. But in the event of a natural disaster, a car, truck, or SUV isn’t just the most valuable movable asset a household owns, but also the primary tool for evacuation, supply runs, and post-storm recovery. This guide covers what to do before the storm arrives, what to keep in the ride year-round, and what to do if your vehicle takes on water.

Not every hurricane threat requires the same response—it all depends on where the storm will make landfall, its subsequent path, its strength, and your location. Understanding the difference between threat levels helps you act at the right time rather than too late—or unnecessarily.​

A hurricane watch means conditions are possible in your area within 48 hours. This is the time to start preparations, such as filling the tank, checking your kit, and deciding whether to evacuate. A hurricane warning means conditions are expected within 36 hours (NOAA). If your local emergency management has issued evacuation orders, follow them. Do not wait for the storm to make final landfall before moving.​

Storm category matters specifically for vehicle planning. Category 1 and 2 storms bring strong winds and storm surge, while Category 3 and above can push storm surge deep inland and produce flooding well outside the immediate coastline. Knowing your flood zone indicates how much risk your parked vehicle faces, even if you shelter in place. FEMA's Flood Map Service Center lets you search by address to see your zone designation. If you're in a Zone A or AE area—high-risk flood zones—your vehicle should not be sitting in a driveway or low-lying parking area when a major storm approaches.

With a storm on the horizon, it’s important to prep your vehicle for the impending struggles.

Pre-Storm Vehicle Checklist

These tasks should be completed as soon as a storm watch is issued for your area—not when the warning is upgraded, and drivers are clambering for resources.​

• Fill the Tank: Gas stations in storm-affected areas run out of fuel within hours of a watch being issued and may be without power for days afterward. A full tank is non-negotiable. If you have a jerry can, fill it as well and store it safely.

• Check Tire Condition and Pressure: A blowout is a dangerous problem—even in ideal conditions. Check tread depth and inflate to the manufacturer's recommended PSI before the storm hits to improve your chances of a safe evacuation.

• Top Off Fluids: Engine oil, coolant, brake fluid, and windshield washer fluid should all be at full levels. Post-storm roads can involve debris, standing water, and long detours—your vehicle needs to be in tip-top condition for that kind of use.

• Check the Battery: A battery that's on the way out in normal conditions can fail after sitting through a storm. If yours is more than three years old and you haven't tested it recently, do so before the storm hits.

• Inspect the Wipers: You may be driving in heavy rain before, during, or after the storm. Worn wiper blades significantly reduce visibility—replace them if they leave streaks.

• Document the Vehicle’s Condition for Insurance: Walk around the vehicle and take photos and video of every panel, the interior, the underhood area, and the undercarriage before the storm arrives. This documentation is your baseline if you need to file a claim.

• Move the Vehicle to Higher Ground or a Covered Shelter: A parking garage above the projected storm-surge elevation is the best available option if you can access one. If you can't, move the vehicle to the highest point on your property or in your neighborhood, away from trees.

• Clear Truck Beds: If you drive a truck, clear the bed before the storm hits. Loose items in an open bed become projectiles in high-wind conditions—a risk to other people, vehicles, and property. Remove everything that isn't secured. If you run a bed rack or removable tonneau cover that could act as a sail in sustained winds, take it off before the storm.

This isn't a kit you assemble the night before—it should be pieced together well in advance and stored in the vehicle throughout hurricane season. Refresh it annually to ensure all essentials are up to date. While not identical to an emergency roadside kit, a hurricane emergency kit has several overlaps. Think of the emergency kit as a go-bag for the vehicle itself, including everything from important documents to a tool kit. Here’s a list of supplies we recommend carrying during storm season:​

Recovery and Roadside

• Jumper cables or a jump starter pack

• Tow strap or recovery strap

• Basic tool kit (pliers, adjustable wrench, screwdrivers, duct tape, zip ties)

• Flashlight with spare batteries or a rechargeable unit

• Work gloves

Emergency and Medical

• First aid kit

• Prescription medications (a minimum three-day supply)

• Blankets and a change of clothes per person

Supplies

• Water—at least one gallon per person per day for three days

• Non-perishable food for three days

• Phone charger and portable power bank

• Cash in small bills—ATMs go offline, and card readers stop working without power

Documents

• Copies of your insurance card, vehicle registration, and ID in a waterproof bag or sealed plastic bag. Original documents are better if you can safely carry them.

Don't drive into standing water. This is the single most important rule and the one most often ignored. The National Weather Service reports that more than half of all flood fatalities occur in vehicles. Just six inches of moving water can knock a person off their feet, and one foot of moving water can sweep a vehicle. If you cannot see the road surface beneath standing water, do not drive through it.​

If water levels rise high enough to enter the engine bay, don’t attempt to start the engine. A hydrolocked engine—one in which water enters the cylinders during a cranking attempt—can cause catastrophic engine damage. Even if the engine doesn't hydrolock, starting a flooded engine without professional inspection can cause issues from damp electronics, contaminated oil, and more.​

Document everything before cleanup. Photograph the water line inside and outside the vehicle, the interior condition, and any visible damage before any cleaning or drying begins. This documentation is essential for an insurance claim.​

Contact your insurance provider before repairs. Most comprehensive auto insurance policies cover flood damage, but the claims process typically requires a pre-repair inspection. Starting repairs before the adjuster has evaluated the vehicle can complicate or reduce your payout.​

Have a mechanic inspect it before driving. Even if the vehicle appears to have dried out and starts normally, floodwater can infiltrate electrical systems, brake components, transmission fluid, and differentials in ways that aren't visible from the outside. A full mechanical inspection is the only reliable way to confirm the vehicle is safe to drive.

Before you move the car/truck after the storm has passed, do a full walkaround in daylight if possible.​

Check for debris damage—branches, roofing material, and other projectiles can puncture tires, crack windshields, and dent body panels during the storm without your knowledge. Check all four tires for obvious damage before moving.​

Look for fluid leaks under the vehicle. If something was struck or shifted during the storm, a leak under the vehicle is a sign the vehicle may not be drivable without repairs.​

Check for downed power lines before driving. A line on the ground or across the road may still be energized and can be fatal to contact. If a power line is on or near your vehicle, stay inside and call emergency services—do not exit the vehicle and do not attempt to drive over the line.​

Road conditions post-storm include debris, washed-out sections, and displaced wildlife—all of which require slower speeds and more attention than normal driving. Many post-storm fatalities occur in the days immediately following a hurricane when drivers encounter hazardous road conditions at normal speeds.​

Fuel will be scarce for days to weeks following a major hurricane. Plan routes with that in mind and keep your tank topped off whenever you have the opportunity.

Q: When Does Hurricane Season Start and End?

A: Hurricane season in the Atlantic runs June 1 through November 30, with the peak period between mid-August and mid-October. The National Hurricane Center recommends having preparations in place by June 1 each year—not when the first storm of the season forms.​

Q: Should I Evacuate or Shelter in Place?

A: Follow the guidance of your local emergency management officials—that's a decision that depends on your specific location, flood zone, storm category, and the infrastructure of your home. NOAA's National Hurricane Center at nhc.noaa.gov and your local emergency management agency are the authoritative sources for those decisions.​

Q: How Do I Protect My Car If I Can't Move It Before the Storm?

A: If you can't move the vehicle to higher ground or covered shelter, position it away from trees and low-lying areas as much as possible. Remove anything from the bed that could become a projectile. Document the vehicle thoroughly with photos and video for insurance purposes. Beyond that, your options are limited—the best protection is to stay far from the storm path.​

Q: What Flood Damage Is Covered by Insurance?

A: Flood damage to a vehicle is typically covered under comprehensive auto insurance, not liability or collision coverage. Standard homeowner's insurance does not cover vehicles. If you're uncertain whether your policy includes comprehensive coverage, call your provider now—before storm season—rather than after an event. National Flood Insurance Program (NFIP) policies cover structures and contents but not vehicles.​

Q: How Long Can a Car/Truck Sit in Floodwater Before It's Totaled?

A: There's no universal threshold—it depends on the water depth, how long the vehicle was submerged, whether it was saltwater or freshwater, and which systems were affected. A vehicle that sat in shallow freshwater for a few hours may be restorable with thorough drying and inspection. A vehicle submerged above the dashboard in saltwater for extended periods is almost certainly a total loss. The key variable is electrical system damage, which is difficult to assess without a professional inspection regardless of submersion depth or duration.​

Q: Can You Drive a Car That Has Been Flooded?

A: Not until it's been professionally inspected. Water intrusion affects the electrical system, braking components, transmission, differential fluid, and potentially the engine—none of which can be reliably assessed by visual inspection alone. A vehicle that starts and drives normally after flooding may have compromised components that fail unpredictably. Have it inspected by a mechanic before returning it to regular use.