What Size Tires and Wheels Fit My Truck? (Full Guide)

Selecting the correct tire and wheel size for your truck is more involved than it might seem. Err too conservative, and your truck looks under-tired—go too aggressive, and you're dealing with rubbing, clearance issues, and a speedometer that's no longer accurate.​

RealTruck's experts have taken the guesswork out of the equation. Below, we've compiled tire size guides for popular makes and models, explained how to read tire and wheel sizing, and laid out the rules for safely running larger tires—with or without a lift.

If you're looking for a vehicle-specific breakdown of factory and aftermarket tire sizes, these guides cover the most popular trucks and SUVs on the road:​

• Jeep Wrangler Tire Size Guide

• Toyota Tacoma Tire Size Guide

• GMC Sierra 1500 Tire Size Guide

• Ford F-150 Tire Size Guide

• Chevy Colorado Tire Size Guide

• Ford Bronco Tire Size Guide

• Toyota Tundra Tire Size Guide

• Ram 1500 Tire Size Guide

• Chevy Silverado Tire Size Guide

Now that you know where to find your tire size, here's how to read it. Tire sizes fall into two systems—P-metric and imperial (flotation)—each using a different combination of units and notation.​

P-Metric Tire Sizing

P-metric sizing is the most common format for passenger vehicles and half-ton trucks. Here's how to read it:​

Example: P245/75R16 91S​

• P = Tire type (P = passenger, LT = light truck)

• 245 = Tire width in millimeters

• 75 = Aspect ratio—the tire's sidewall height as a percentage of its width (here, 75% of 245mm)

• R = Construction type (R = radial, D = diagonal, B = bias ply)

• 16 = Wheel diameter in inches

• 91 = Load index—a numeric code corresponding to the maximum weight the tire can carry (ranging from 99 lbs. at index 1 to 7,385 lbs. at index 150)

• S = Speed rating

Imperial (Flotation) Tire Sizing

Imperial sizing is common on trucks, SUVs, and off-road vehicles and uses inches throughout rather than the millimeter/percentage combination of P-metric.​

Example: 33x12.50R17LT 120Q​

• 33 = Overall tire height in inches

• 12.50 = Tire width in inches

• R = Construction type

• 17 = Wheel diameter in inches

• LT = Tire type (light truck)

• 120 = Load index

• Q = Speed rating

Imperial sizing is more intuitive for truck owners shopping by height—when someone says they're running "35s," they're referring to the first number in the imperial size, or the tire’s overall height.

Before shopping for new tires or wheels, it helps to know exactly what size your truck is currently running. There are three reliable ways to find this information.

Look at Tires’ Sidewall

The simplest method is to look at the sidewall of your current tires. If your truck is still on its original rubber, the factory size is printed directly on the tire. Look for a number sequence separated by "X" or "/"—it'll read something like "33x12.50R17" for an imperial size or "285/70R18" for a P-metric size.

Check Door Jamb Sticker

If you're not certain the tires are factory original, check the door jamb sticker on the driver's side. This sticker lists your truck's VIN, GVWR, paint code, and recommended tire size. Similar stickers are sometimes found inside the fuel door, under the hood, or in the glove compartment.

Check Owner’s Manual​

Finally, your owner's manual includes a tire size chart covering every configuration—cab style, bed length, drivetrain, and trim—so you can confirm the factory spec for your exact build. A typical chart looks like this:

Wheel fitment involves more than just picking a diameter. Three measurements determine whether a wheel will physically mount to your truck and clear your brakes and suspension:​

Diameter is the wheel's size in inches—17-in., 18-in., 20-in., and so on. This must match the tire size you're running.​

Width affects how wide a tire you can run and how the wheel fills the fender well. A wider wheel can accept a wider tire, but can also push the tire closer to suspension components or body panels.​

Bolt pattern is the number of lug bolts and the diameter of the circle they form. A wheel with the wrong bolt pattern simply won't mount. Common truck bolt patterns include 6x135 (Ford), 6x139.7 (GM, Toyota, Nissan), and 5x150 (Tundra).​

Beyond those three basics, offset and backspacing determine where the wheel sits in the fender 

well—too much or too little, and the wheel can rub on the inside of the fender or stick out past it. These measurements are closely related but calculated differently. For a full breakdown of both and how they affect fitment, see our guide on wheel offset vs. wheel backspacing.

Finding your factory tire size is the starting point—but many truck owners want to run something larger. Whether you're after a more aggressive stance, improved off-road capability, or a combination of both, understanding the limits of your specific truck's clearances is what separates a clean fitment from a rubbing problem.

There are several legitimate reasons to run tires larger than the factory spec, including:​

• Aesthetics: Larger tires fill the wheel wells more aggressively, giving the truck a more planted, capable appearance—especially when paired with a lift or level.

• Off-Road Capability: A taller, wider tire provides more ground clearance, a larger contact patch on loose terrain, and better traction in mud, rocks, and sand. Most dedicated off-road tires also come in larger sizes that aren't offered in factory dimensions.

• Ride Quality: A taller sidewall—common on larger off-road sizes—provides more cushioning over rough terrain, softening the impact of rocks and ruts compared to the lower-profile tires found on many factory configurations.

• ​Towing and Load Stability: LT-rated tires in larger sizes often carry higher load ratings than their smaller counterparts, which can be an advantage for trucks used for heavy towing or hauling.

One tradeoff worth noting is that larger, heavier tires add rotational mass, which can affect acceleration, braking, and fuel economy. If your speedometer and odometer are calibrated to your factory tire size, running a significantly larger tire will also affect their accuracy—a recalibration or programmer may be needed.

The maximum tire size you can run varies significantly by make, model, and suspension configuration, but the 3% rule is a practical starting point for stock trucks. The rule states that the largest tire you should attempt to fit on unmodified suspension is 3% taller and 3% wider than the factory tire. Going beyond that on a stock truck risks rubbing on body panels, suspension components, or the inner fender liner—particularly at full steering lock or when the suspension compresses.​

A lift or leveling kit changes the equation. Raising the truck increases fender well clearance, allowing larger tires without the risk of contact. As a general rule of thumb, every inch of lift allows approximately one inch of additional tire height—though this varies by truck and lift design. Most lift kit manufacturers specify the maximum compatible tire sizes for their products, so check those specs before purchasing.​

If you want to be precise about clearances before buying, take a few measurements yourself. With the wheels pointed straight ahead and then at full steering lock, measure the gaps between the tire's edge and nearby suspension components, inner fenders, and body panels on both sides. These measurements give you a baseline for how much additional tire size you have room for.​

Not sure where to start? Check out our wheel and tire guides by make and model or browse RealTruck's full tire inventory to search by vehicle and size. And if you're also shopping for bigger brakes to match your bigger tires, see our guide on upgrading brakes for larger tires and wheels.​

Shopping for tires? Check out a few of our top-selling, on- and off-road-friendly options. ​

• Toyo Open Country A/T III: All-terrain capability with on-road manners

• Nitto Ridge Grappler: Hybrid terrain with an aggressive sidewall

• Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T: Maximum off-road aggression in an all-terrain package

Q: Are Rims and Wheels the Same Thing?

A: Technically no, though the terms are used interchangeably. The rim is specifically the outer edge of the wheel—the part the tire bead seats against. The wheel is the complete assembly including the rim, spokes, and center hub. In everyday use, "rims" and "wheels" mean the same thing.​

Q: What Is the 3% Rule for Tires?

A: The 3% rule is a guideline for the largest tire size that can safely fit on a stock, unlifted truck. It states that the maximum tire you should run on factory suspension is 3% taller and 3% wider than the original equipment size. Going beyond that increases the risk of rubbing at full lock or under suspension compression.​

Q: What's the Difference Between P-Metric and Imperial Tire Sizing?

A: P-metric sizing uses a combination of millimeters, percentages, and inches, and is the most common format on passenger vehicles and half-ton trucks. Imperial (flotation) sizing uses inches throughout and is common on trucks and off-road vehicles. Imperial sizing is more intuitive for truck owners—"35s" refers directly to the 35-in. overall height of the tire.​

Q: Where Can I Find My Truck's Factory Tire Size?

A: Three places—the sidewall of your current tires, the door jamb sticker on the driver's side, or your owner's manual. The door jamb sticker is the most reliable source if you're not certain the truck is still on its original tires.​

Q: How Much Lift Do I Need to Fit 35–in. Tires?

A: It depends on the truck, but most full-size trucks require a minimum of 2–3 inches of lift to run 35-in. tires without rubbing. Some trucks—like the Raptor or Rubicon-trim Bronco—can fit 35s from the factory. Check your lift kit manufacturer's compatibility specs for the definitive answer for your specific truck and lift combination.​

Q: Do Larger Tires Affect My Speedometer?

A: Yes. Your speedometer is calibrated to your factory tire's circumference. A taller tire covers more distance per rotation, which means your speedometer will read lower than your actual speed. The larger the difference from factory size, the more significant the discrepancy. A programmer or recalibration can correct this.​

Q: What's the Difference Between Wheel Offset and Backspacing?

A: Both measurements describe where the wheel sits in the fender well, but they're calculated differently. Offset is the distance from the wheel's mounting surface to its centerline—backspacing is the distance from the mounting surface to the inner edge of the wheel. For a full explanation of both and how they affect fitment, see our wheel offset vs. wheel backspacing guide.